Tarkarli

It was almost the end of spring (if there is such a season in Mumbai) and time to wander again. And off we were to our next mid-week destination. Over the years I have steadfastly avoided week-end destinations where waves of humanity descend along with their metropolitan baggage in an often unsuccessful attempt to run away from the monotony of city life.The same destinations on weekdays are a different story all together - peaceful, quiet, undisturbed by the cacophony of tourists competing with each other to make the most of  what is on offer. This time on, we did not have to spend a lot of time deciding on a place to visit as that decision had been made on our last trip. Once again, early in the morning, we hit the roads on our way to Tarkarli, a  quaint hamlet on a sliver of land sandwiched between the meandering Karli river and the Arabian Sea.



Tarkarli is situated at the southern end of Maharashtra, just south of the Town of Malwan and the famous fort of Sindhudurg. To get to Tarkarli you can either take the Mumbai-Goa Highway (NH17) or the NH4 via Pune till Kohlapur and then cut across the scenic Western Ghats via Gaganbawda to join NH17 north of Kankavali. A few kilometers later turn right at Kasal and then just short of Malvan town take a left along the coast to reach Tarkarli.

     
View Driving directions to Road To Tarkarli Beach in a larger map

At Tarkarli, you can stay at the MTDC resort on the beach or at one of the many smaller resorts or home-stays dotting the road from Malvan. MTDC also maintains two houseboats - Karli and Hiranyakeshi. The Karli became our residence for the next few days. Both houseboats have been imported from Kerala and have two air-conditioned cabins each. Comfortable, once you get used to the slight list to port.

The Houseboat Karli

Country boat ferrying people across the river

Tarkarli pronounced as Taar (as in car) and Karli (as in curly) gets its name from the jetty of this tiny fishing village, from where people used to cross over to the village of Karli on the opposite bank in local country boats called Tar.

Lazing about on the houseboat while it chugged along ever so imperceptibly up and down the river, gorging on fried King Fish, crabs and prawns cooked in Malvani style, sipping at a glass full of Kokam juice or Solkadi took me back to the days of the Zamindars enjoying their lazy lives on their bajras on the Ganga at Benaras or the Hoogly at Kolkata depending on where one wanted to situate the day dream.

The villages of Tarkarli and Devbaug survive mainly on fishing. Cashew plantations and tourists provide additional sources of income.

Fisher-folks mending their nets.

Fishing on river Karli.

Cashew Factory.

Cashews - ready to be roasted.

The Karli river meets the sea a mile south of Tarkarli. At the mouth of the river is an island, more of a sandbar, that came up after the Tsunami of 2004. The Tsunami, while being the messiah of destruction for so many provided the perfect opportunity to the local youth by throwing up this island, now known as "Tsunami Island". Every morning, water scooters, kayaks, banana boats are brought here from neighboring villages to transform the island into a water sports complex. The calm waters of the river provides the perfect setting for tourists to experience the adrenaline rush while being thrashed about in the water. Delicious home made Neer Dosa, Modaks and Kokam Juice are available as refreshments.

Watersports on the Karli.

Makeshift stall at Tsunami Island.

The town of Malvan, 7 Kms from Tarkarli is like any other fishing town dotting the Konkan coast. It is famous for its masalas used in preparing delectable malvani cuisine. Masalas from Deolkar, Chilly Ginger Lemon Ice cream at Oraskar, Biscuits and Nankhatai from Vijaya Bakery and Malvani sea food at Chaitanya are a must at malvan.

Chilly Ginger Lemon ice cream at Oraskars' 

The famous Deolkar Masalas

The Sindhudurg Fort a mile out at sea from Malvan is one of the largest forts built by Shivaji. Built around the same time as the Janjira Fort of the Siddhis, it uses similar technology like lead in the mortar for building the walls to prevent erosion by the sea. The Janjira fort though, looks more formidable and well preserved. Inside the fort is a the only temple in Maharashtra dedicated to Shivaji. Like all other sea forts along the coast, legend has it that there was a tunnel from the fort to the main land under the sea. It was apparently blocked by the British when they occupied the fort.

Main entrance to Sindhudurg Fort

One of the three perennial fresh water wells within the fort

Sindhudurg Fort. The small beach is where the Queen used to bathe in the sea.

The reefs around the fort provides an ideal setting for snorkeling. A variety of fishes and corals can be viewed around the fort.

Corals at Sindhudurg

A couple of lazy days at the picturesque Tarkarli, in company of Kingfishers, Seagulls, Hornbills and warmhearted local folks is definitely a worthwhile getaway.

   

Our constant companion on the houseboat

Seagulls on Tsunami Island

Devbaug - where the river meets the sea